Clubs in Paris Bars in Paris
Restaurants in Paris
Maxim's (Global's Favorite)
3 rue Royale, 8th (01.42.65.27.94)
Mº Concorde. Open 12.30-2.15pm, 7.30-10pm Mon-Sat. Closed Mon in July and Aug. Average 600F (lunch), 800F (dinner). Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.
Though nostalgia, conspicuous consumption and glamour have long been the main reason to dine at what is probably the most famous restaurant in the world, the surprising news is that new chef Bruno Stril has brought about a quiet culinary renaissance at this citadel of belle époque Paris. He offers a dual menu, with a small list of classics, alongside his own gently modern dishes. The waiters remain briskly uninterested in anyone who doesn't have the airs of a free-spending Onassis, but the orchestra is charming, the international crowd out for a special evening communicates a contagious joy and the meticulously restored dining room irrestibly romantic.

Patachou
(Global's Favorite!)
9 pl du Tertre, 18th (01.42.51.06.06)
Mº Anvers. Open noon-12.30am (salon de thé 8.30am-2am) daily. Average 240F. Prix fixe 180F. Credit AmEx, MC, V.
There are three reasons to come here: the view, the view and the view: a panorama of Paris from the heights of Montmartre. Cooking is less spectacular: slightly bland salmon tartare, tasty but tough beef fillet in foie gras sauce. Wines are middle-of-the-French-road and priced about 20 per cent higher than elsewhere. But you'll be happy to be reasonably well fed in such a magical spot.

Au Bon Acceuil
14 rue de Monttessuy, 7th (01.47.05.46.11)
Mº Alma-Marceau/RER Pont de l'Alma. Open noon-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri. Closed Aug and one week in Jan. Average 300F. Prix fixe (dinner) 155F. Lunch menu 135F. Credit MC, V.

This bistro near the Eiffel Tower fills nightly with internationals and chic locals for its bargain 155F cuisine du marché menu. The offer changes twice daily but might be a superb red pepper mousse with aubergine caviar, émincé de boeuf and comforting crème brölée. A la carte goes to grander roast turbot with asparagus and Jerusalem artichokes. Booking is essential and, even then, be prepared to wait.

Chez Jean
38 rue Boyer, 20th (01.47.97.44.58)
Mº Gambetta. Open 8-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-2pm, 8-11pm Sat. Closed a week Aug. Average 120F. Prix fixe 98F (dinner only). Lunch menu 49F, 66F. Credit MC, V.

This place has a timeless feel, even if it is part of Ménilmontant's arty renaissance. Loquacious Jean makes new customers feel at home, a mood that is reflected in the cooking and tongue-in-cheek service. Main courses such as pork fillet and cod with saffron sauce are satisfying, and the house red is only too drinkable, from a list with unusual regional finds (Jean is a former wine journalist).

L'Affriolé
17 rue Malar, 7th (01.44.18.31.33)
Mº La Tour-Maubourg or Invalides. Open noon-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri; 7.30-10.30pm Sat. Average 260F. Prix fixe 190F (dinner only). Lunch menu 120F. Credit MC, V.

An almost exclusively French clientle comes to this neighbourhood bistro for the inventive cooking of chef Alain Atibard. Starters like a creamy, smoked salmon mousse with cucumber, mint, lettuce and raisins and, as a main course, rabbit stuffed with mushrooms, artichokes and foie gras, cooked en papillotte, exemplify his approach. Reserve ahead.

L'Ami Louis
32 rue du Vertbois, 3rd (01.48.87.77.48)
Mº Arts et Métiers. Open 12.15-2pm, 8-11pm Wed-Sun. Closed mid July-end Aug. Average 500F. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

Though it's almost impossible not to fall in love with this stage-set of pre-war Paris - metal pipes venting a coal-burning stove still cross the gaslit dining room - the food is scandalously overpriced and often mediocre. This doesn't seem to bother the wealthy, mainly American clientele (this is where Chirac brought Clinton). The tradition is to start with the foie gras (270F), and then move on to crisp roast chicken and thin frites (350F), both cooked in goose fat. There are some excellent wines, and service is friendly. A place for those with money to burn.

La Fermette Marbeuf 1900

5 rue Marbeuf, 8th (01.53.23.08.00)
Mº Alma-Marceau. Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Sun-Wed; noon-3pm, 7-12.30pm Thur-Sat. Average 250F. Prix fixe 178F. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

This popular Frères Blanc restaurant draws a wealthy, cosmopolitan clientele to its Art Nouveau dining room, rediscovered by accident in 1978. Chef Gilbert Isaac plays it straight, producing light zesty starters, like the thick tomato fondant studded with artichokes, and delicious main courses including sole in Champagne sauce. Finish with the Grand Marnier soufflé. Book.

La Tour de Montlhéry (Chez Denise)
5 rue des Prouvaires, 1st (01.42.36.21.82)
RER Châtelet-Les Halles. Open 24 hours, 7am Mon-7am Sat. Closed 14 July-15 Aug. Average 220F. Credit MC, V.

This famous all-night mecca - a relic of Les Halles' market past - sees a cheerful rabble of regulars tucking into huge main courses like piles of lamb chops or hearty rabbit simmered in mustard sauce with frites. Just the ticket for ravenous nightbirds. Reserve.

Natacha
17bis rue Campagne-Première, 14th (01.43.20.79.27)
Mº Raspail. Open 8.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Closed three weeks Aug. Average 200F. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

People (Brett Easton Ellis, Mick Jagger) come here late for the buzz of going where others go and for the flattering attentions of hostess Natacha. It has a feeling of almost domestic warmth, a little clubby but not intimidating. Cooking is more than decent, including goat-cheese ravioli and sautéed rabbit.